Parisian Places: Guide to Jules Joffrin

The 18th arrondissement of Paris is big. Like, if you look at a map of the arrondissements, they start out teeny tiny like the mini-cupcakes at Berko and gradually get bigger and bigger as they snail out so by the time you get to 18 out of 20, it's kind of like overfilled muffin tins swelling up in the oven (see, I kept the baked goods theme. I like baked goods.) 

Since it covers a lot of territory, you may hear varying things about the 18th - the dangers of Château Rouge and Barbès – Rochechouart (don't go at night), the sex shops (yup, Boulevard Clichy is chock-full), the charming, winding hills of Montmartre (wear good shoes and bring your inhaler) the tourist crowds and tourist traps at Sacre Coeur (still a must-see, but hang onto your purse). 

But I doubt you've heard about Jules Joffrin. 

Jules Joffrin is at the top of the 18th arrondissement (if you're looking at a two dimensional rendering). If you go up the hill to Sacre Coeur, and then down the other side, past the streets of Montmartre and the old iconic restaurants and bars and that one vineyard, at the bottom, you'll find Jules Joffrin. (Or you could have mercy on your calves and take line 12 to the Jules Joffrin stop.)

I love this neighborhood because it's real. It's not remotely touristy. No one is selling Eiffel Tower keychains, no one is posing for souvenir photos with their finger on top of the Louvre pyramid, no one is speaking English, and no one is waiting in line for anything but a baguette. It's not that I dislike that other side of Paris - I love the museums and the monuments and the sparking Eiffel Tower lights at night. But I also love seeing a neighborhood that has a real face, instead of one covered with greasepaint and tinsel (wait... what kind of face are we putting tinsel on?)

So let me share with you the best of this little-known neighborhood, unvisited by tourists, tucked away behind Montmartre. (And since, as usual, all my favorite things have to do with food, you can even grab yourself a picnic and walk it up to Sacre Coeur. If your idea of a picnic involves a rotisserie chicken, that is.)

Maison Landemaine, Artisan Boulanger Patissier

You can always spot the best boulangerie by the long line out front. Maison Landemaine has a line out the door every evening. (Except for Sunday, when they are closed.) My personal favorites are the baguette tradition (best ever) and their pain aux raisins, but they have a wide assortment of mouthwatering treats. 

Is your mouth watering?

You can also peer through the window at the bakers hard at work. They bake bread twice a day, not just in the morning, which means your evening baguette has a good chance of being fresh out of the oven - YUM!

I expected that prices would be cheaper in the 18th, but no, they are exactly the same as at my favorite boulangerie in the very rich and touristy 6th arrondissement. (At least the rent is cheaper.) Totally worth it, though. 

Rotisserie Maistre Mathieu

This rotisserie is snuggled onto Rue Poteau, the diagonal market street that serves as Main Street of the neighborhood. It is the go-to place for quick, easy, cheap, and delicious. Their formule poulet includes half a coquelet (a mini-chicken) and a big barquette of potatoes or fries (ask them to pour a little jus over the potatoes!) It's enough for two people (or one, if you're reeeeally hungry) and for how much? 4.80. Be careful - this special sells out later in the day.  

Okay, you have your chicken, potatoes, bread and dessert - what are you missing? Fruit and vegetables! If you time it right, I highly recommend that you hit of one of the open air markets in the neighborhood. They are so busy and bustling, so interesting, and so cheap. My favorites are on Boulevard Ney (Thursday and Sunday morning) and on Boulevard Ornano (Tuesday and Friday morning)

However, if it's not market day and you need your veggies ASAP, cross the street from Rotisserie Maitre Mathieu (we're still on Rue de Poteau) and go to the Halles de Montmartre. It's more expensive than going to the market, but the same as going to the grocery store, and you have a veritable cornucopia of produce. Note: If it's Sunday morning, you're going to wait in line and bump elbows over oranges. 

Okay, now grab your oranges and coquelet and baguette and walk uphill for 20 minutes - you're at Sacre Coeur! Time for a picnic with a view. 

If you face the other way, you have a beautiful view of the Paris skyline, but for some reason, I don't have any good pictures of that. Sorry!